Nancy Bocken is professor of Sustainable Business at Maastricht University. For the Third Floor, she interprets the impact of the fashion industry on the environment and she shares tips on how both the government, sneaker brands and sneaker lovers can make more sustainable choices.
Most people wear sneakers on a daily basis - as casual footwear, as performance sportswear, as style statement or perhaps not worn at all, but purchased to keep as a rare collectible. Few objects are as universal or as diverse, which is one reason why the sneaker has become the undisputed cultural symbol of our times bridging culture, design, fashion, music and technology.
With a global market that has been valued at nearly 80 billion dollars and is predicted to reach 120 billion by 2026, the sneaker industry is the most innovative and fast-paced in the footwear sector. With thousands of new sneaker models in endless colourways released every year, design innovation is key. Designers and inventors continue to push the boundaries, and the speed and scale of this industry means that design innovations get implemented quickly and on a large scale. Yet the journey from design concept to production and launch is a complicated process that could take several years.
The history of sneakers begins in the world of sports, where design to improve athletic performance was at the forefront. But over the last forty years youth cultures across the globe have increasingly influenced the shape and speed of the industry. Many iconic sneakers originally designed for specific athletic activities were adopted by young people who transformed sneakers into style icons that have become an important vehicle to express one’s identity.
The story of the sneaker is a reflection of cultural, societal and technological change. From the power of sneakers to reinforce a sense of belonging and style, to their ability to improve athletic performance, this exhibition traces the history, journey and future of the sneaker from sportswear staple to cultural icon and fashion statement. And it highlights the design stories and people behind some of the most culturally and technologically significant sneakers ever made.
State of Play
The sneaker industry is vast. It has grown exponentially over the last two decades and shows no sign of slowing down. In 2021, for example, about 1.2 billion sneakers were sold worldwide which is almost double the amount of sneakers sold in 2012.
Much of the industry’s expansion is based on a unique combination of consumer demand and strategic marketing by competing brands. However, there are instances where a sneaker model has risen to prominence mainly thanks to its cultural value. One example of this is the Nike Air Force 1, which is credited with being the sneaker model released in the greatest number of different versions.
Sneaker resale has become an industry in its own right, with online platforms such as StockX achieving record prices and releasing certain models on their platform only. The largest profits are driven by a thirst for exclusivity in a market worth an estimated $10 billion (€9.2 billion).
StockX
In its 5-year history, StockX has facilitated the trading of millions of sneakers. The data gathered and analysed from these transactions builds a picture of the growth and changing trends of the secondary sneaker market.
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In een wereld waar het draait om minimale marges tussen winst en verlies, delft het milieu vaak het onderspit. Fabrikanten denken vooral in winst, niet in verlies en al helemaal niet in verlies voor de planeet. Dat geldt ook voor de maker van je hypermoderne stampers.
Nike, Adidas and Puma, but also new brands are focusing on them: NFT sneakers, or virtual sneakers. Such a sneaker is a unique digital "non-fungible token" (NFT), a concept that is increasingly common in the art and fashion world. The digital shoe can be saved and later sold or worn by gamers in...
Titi Finlay is a London based content creator, sneakerhead and sneaker activist working. For the Third Floor she tries to answer the question: why can’t sneakers be gender neutral?
Some were banned, while others stir up very strong emotions, and then there are also lawsuits between makers and brands.
Designers Janntje and Toon talk about the exhibition design, details and challenges.
The sneaker industry is vast. It has grown exponentially over the last two decades and shows no sign of slowing down. In 2021, for example, about 1.2 billion sneakers were sold worldwide which is almost double the amount of sneakers sold in 2012.
Nowadays, sneaker culture is a global phenomenon, but it was born locally, even before the rise of the internet. The series Sole Origins takes you to the cities that have had a great impact on this.
In our sneaker dictionary you will find an overview of the most important, most used and sometimes just plain fun words.
Everyone can point out the sole of a sneaker, but what about the upper? Where is the mustache? And what do the eyelet and the aglet have in common? Find out in this sneaker anatomy.
Still the sneaker's popularity remains undiminished, especially among young people. Worldwide subcultures keep adding specific models to their daily uniform.
In the 1990s, the sneaker gained a foothold in the Netherlands thanks to gabbers and bubbling, but a unique way of styling the sneaker also emerged in London.
When sneaker brands realized the popularity among young people, they tried to entice them by using musicians and athletes as role models.
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.
The sneaker industry is environmentally damaging, but there are many hopeful projects to address these problems.
Most sports shoes that we now consider groundbreaking arose from solving core design concerns, such as traction, fit, stability, cushioning and energy return can help to improve athletic performance.
In the 1990s major sports brands ventured outside their comfort zone, entering into exclusive partnerships with small retailers and progressive fashion designers.
Sneaker culture has become ubiquitous thanks largely to the influence of young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods. They have been instrumental in elevating sneakers from pure sportswear to sought-after icons of style.